I suspect the pump pickup was not connected properly — great. There are no serviceable parts on the fork, so it had to be replaced. It was time to wash the grime and goo out of the case internals.
A Varsol tank quietly sits in the corner of my shop. Safety third, right? With parts clean and dry, inspecting the drive chain for wear was essential. Cracks in chains and sloppy links can occur, but more common is just a plain, worn-out chain. I like to hold the chain out horizontally off of a worktable to see how much droop there is. This chain is still acceptable. If you find yourself needing a new chain purchase a Morse chain unless you like repairing destructive carnage every few months.
Nothing obvious showed up during the remainder of the inspection. The bearings were cleaned and checked do NOT use compressed air to dry them out for excessive wear or any sort of a grinding or rough feel.
All shift shafts and fork pads appeared to be in great shape. Changing all the seals is a simple and easy job. Simply pry the old seals out, clean the mating surfaces and install the new seals. The coating on the new seals this one in red provide an oil tight seal provided you have the surface smooth and clean. I happen to have a press, but a block of wood and a hammer work as well.
Take your time. You only get one shot at it. Onto the bearing swapping and arguably the most difficult part of the whole procedure of installing the SYE into the transfer case. The top portions of the shaft are where a pocket or a Torrington bearing rides and the new one requires a different bearing. The bearing to be replaced is located inside the planetary gear section and needs to be removed along with the backing cup if it is equipped. There are many ways to remove them including with the use a pocket bearing puller or you can weld a tab and use a slide hammer.
You can even cut it out with a die grinder but be careful not to nick the mounting surface. With the transfer case out of the truck, I simply tapped the bearing cup out with a hammer but remember to take a measurement first! The first thing to do is measure how deep the end of the bearing cup is. The old bearing and cup are on the right. They are two separate pieces. The new setup includes a spacer sleeve already on the new bearing and the cup is an integral part of the assembly.
Remember, the assembly is only a light press fit and can easily be tapped in place to match the depth measurement you took before. Do not tap against the back of the bearing — just around the outer face to keep it from deforming. Once the bearing is in place, you can continue on with clearing the hot mess of parts strewn across the workbench and placing everything back into the case.
Or be like me and find a few stray parts and have to pull it all apart again while the sealant is setting up. Good times. Then pry the output case off the rear cover, be careful not to brake anything. Remove the bolts holding on the rear cover. There is one at the top of the cover that you will need a 12 point 10mm socket for the rest will take a 15mm socket.
Once you get these bolts removed you will need to pry off the rear cover the fluid pump will come off with the cover, there are pry spots between the cover and the case near the sleeved holes. Be mindful of the spring that is on the shifter rod, you can leave it in place remove it for the time being just make sure to put it back in place before reinstalling the rear cover.
Once you get the rear cover off you can remove the shafts. Remove the front and rear shafts and chain all at the same time, this is one place it helps to have someone working with you.
The rear output shaft will slide out of the shifter fork assembly. Now you have the rear output shaft removed there is a snap ring that holds on the chain gear, remove this snap ring then the main gear and next the syncro gear. You are ready to reassemble everything. You need to clean off the rear cover and the main case mating surfaces and the rear cover to tail case mating surface on the rear cover.
You might need to clean off all the bolts also. The Bayou Geep shaft came with 2 needle bearing assemblies that need to be pressed or tapped into place in the syncro gear. The Advanced Adapters kit does not have this, instead the syncro gear rides directly in the rear output shaft. In any case you should pre-lube the contact surfaces with assembly grease or a few drops of ATF before reassembling. In the picture you can see the stock output shaft and the replacement side-by-side.
If you are so astute to notice, disregard the snap ring that is on the upper part of the replacement shaft, a lesson I learned. Now slide the syncro gear on the shaft and then the main gear. The Bayou Geep kit also included a thrust washer you need to slide on after the main gear.
You can now place the snap ring on the shaft that holds everything in place. Slide the shafts into the case with the chain between them as one unit, you will have to twist the rear output shaft so that it lines up with the shifting fork assembly.
RTV the mating surface of the case and place the rear cover on, remembering to replace the spring on the shifting shaft if you removed it. Also make sure the pump is connected to the pickup tube. Start installing the bolts, there are brackets that hold wires on the upper corners on the case bolts.
Remember the 10mm 12 point bolt goes in the top and the black bolts with the washers go in the holes with the sleeves. Torque the bolts to specs ft lbs. Place the snap ring on the shaft that holds the pump in place and install the speedometer gear on the output shaft. Place the long end towards the transfer case. RTV the tail housing case and install it on the cover. You will need to mate the housing with the fluid pump, so a bit a wiggling may be in order. Install the bolts that retain the tail housing and torque to specs.
Install the drain plug in the rear cover and fill the transfer case with fluid, then tighten fill plug. I have not mentioned in this where to use the Locktite. The places to use the Locktite should be obvious when you look at the bolts and nuts you are working with. All of them get it. When you install the drive shaft you will need to set your pinion angle such that the pinion points straight up the drive shaft. I hope this helps your install go smoothly and if there is anything that was inadvertently left out I apologize.
TJ Generation.
0コメント